I wanted to build a titanium snow bike capable of running 4.7″ Surly BFL or Husker Du 4.0, so here it is:
Behold, the Carver O’Beast Ti Snow Bike. I tried on this build to feature parts from smaller and/or lesser know companies that build fine products, and I think I have a good mix here.
Probably not the best year to build a new snow bike with the lack of snow in almost every state this year, but I did get it out a few times so far. The beauty of this symmetrical 170/135mm build is that I can have a second set of wheels for the Spring/Summer without some of the issues of building offset wheels.
Build Spec: Weight 29 lbs – 1 oz. w/45NRTH Husker Du 4.0 & Bontrager 26×2.5-2.8 Build Spec: Weight 30 lbs – 10 oz. w/Surly BFL 4.7
Frame: 2012 Carver O’Beast Ti – 19″ brushed
Fork: 2012 Carver O’Beast Carbon – 465mm
Rear Der: Shimano RD-M662 SLX
Front Der: Shimano FD-M771 XT Direct Mount & Problem Solver Adapter# 1023
Shifters: Shimano Deore SL-M590 9-spd
Headset: Cane Creek C110
Crankset: Surly MWOD double off-set 175mm x 22/36t w/bashguard (Pugsley Version)Pedals: Crankbrothers Candy 3
Brakes: Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc, 160mm
Brake Levers: Avid Speed Dial 7
Cassette: Shimano HG80 – 9spd
Chain: SRAM PC-991
Stem: Kalloy AS-008 25.4mm, 110mm, 7 degree
Handlebar: TiCycles Ti Flat Bar 680mm, 15 degree
Seatpost: Kent Eriksen Ti 27.2mm x 400mm
Saddle: Fizik Aliante Versus Saddle (VS)
Grips: Ergon GA1
Tires: Surly Big Fat Larry 4.7 (F) & (R)
Tubes: Surly Lite XC 3.0-4.0
Rim Strips: Black
Wheelset: Speedway 70mm, Salsa 170/135mm w/QR’s by: Lace Mine 29 thanks Mike!
Carver Frames & Forks can be purchased here: www.bikeman.com
NOTES: As far as the build went, I seem to work on so few “normal” bikes this was relatively routine whatever that means anymore.
The bottom bracket threads were wrapped in PTFE tape before greasing the threads and torquing. Creak-free longer this way.
The front fork is crazy light. Surprisingly, the supplied shim washers for the rotor worked perfectly. Typically, screwing around with spacer washers is exceedingly time-consuming.
Shifting went together perfectly! It’s key to run the front derailleur slightly higher than optimum on a “normal” bike. Correct set up involves getting the FD’s inner cage to just clear the outer chainring on upshifts. Insuring that the tail of the FD clears the top of the chainstay is also necessary.
The brakes were easier to set up on your Carver than on the Moonlander. –it’s possible to actually see the pad to rotor clearance on the Carver. On the Moonlander, if the tires are installed, it’s all by ear.
Master Mechanic 18+ yrs.
Century Cycles – Peninsula, Ohio